Spain’s Oldest Bullring
April 30, 2013 by Helen
Filed under Travel information
Snap quiz…where is the oldest bullring in Spain? Madrid, you say? I would have guessed Madrid too, but we both would have been wrong. So knowing that, what is your second guess?
Need a hint? Okay…Have a look at this special piece of art. Over on the left hand side, near the bottom, you will see the bull ring represented on this map. Does that help? (You can click on the image to make it larger.)
You might recognize the map from my last posting about our visit to Ronda. Yes, the oldest bullring in Spain is in Ronda, one of the largest of the white hill towns in southern Spain. (I realize that there is academic discussion as to whether Ronda or Seville has the oldest bullring, but we were told here in Ronda that Ronda’s bullring is the oldest so that is what I am going with.)
A brochure (in English) that one can pick up when paying your admission tells us that the first bullfight took place here in 1785 and the matadors were Pedro Romero and Pepe Hillo.
Bullfighting is taken seriously here. A large, well laid out museum dedicated to bullfighting is housed under the stands. Here the matadors and bulls are honored. I was rather taken aback by the size of the actual costumes worn by leading bullfighters…they are small! Somehow I had imaged these men to be much taller. The museum also houses exhibitions of harness, livery and an antique fire-arms collection.
But into the bullring (Plaza de Toros) itself.
Painted on the boards around the bullring are the letters RMR. They stand for Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Ronda. We were told that these were guilds, set up in the 1500’s, so members of the nobility could practice their horsemanship skills and use of weapons. Hmm…that would explain the extensive harness collection (some very beautiful!) and the extensive antique fire-arms collection in the museum. And it would explain the Equestrian School that is located next to the bullring.
Here we go. Walk right into the middle of the bullring. I wonder where everyone is. There were lots of people in the entryway. Why are we the only ones out here? Are we supposed to be out here or should we have stayed in the stands?
There is some noise coming from one of the entrances to the ring. Maybe we really are in trouble…no one mentioned bulls being here today!
Whew! It is just a tour group and their guide entering and taking their places in the stands to hear a lecture about the bullring. (Funny how one’s imagination can get the best of us, isn’t it.)
As we leave the bullring, let’s check out the horse and carriage rides available there. That might be a rather pleasant way to get a tour of this lovely hill town.
- Address: Virgen de la Paz, 15-29400, Ronda
- Admission charged: 6.50 euros per person (when we were there)
- Open every day (except when there are bullfights)
- Audioguides in several languages available
- www.rmcr.org
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Happy travels!