La Mancha
May 6, 2013 by Helen
Filed under Travel destinations
“To dream the impossible dream. To fight the unbeatable foe” Those lyrics from the musical Man of La Mancha float through our rented car as we drive highway A4 south from Madrid, Spain. What could be more perfect as we are in the autonomous region of Castitle-La Mancha…the very region that was Don Quixote’s stomping grounds.
As I look out the window at the passing scenery those lyrics take on a new meaning for me. I do realize that Cervantes’ classic book was a political commentary BUT being rather familiar with farming communities, I listen to the lyrics and look at the scenery through the ears and eyes of a farmer. Soil is almost nonexistent here! How could seeds take hold..literally. How could roots find nutrients to keep plants alive? Well, I think I know the answer…most plants could not survive here.
That realization helps me understand the “polka dotted” fields seen in this area. For many, many kilometers I have been telling my husband how unique and pretty all these polka dotted hillsides are. When one of these areas is close enough to the highway to get a good look we realize the “polka dots” are planted trees…olive trees. Apparently olive trees have a very shallow root system and can survive in conditions that many other plants can not. (Learn about the olive tree on this website…click here. I realize it is the website of a commercial olive tree operation, but its description of olive tree properties is very good.)
Getting hungry? There is an interesting looking little restaurant (Restaurante Maria Belen) near the side of the A4. Let’s give it a try. No English is spoken here but it is amazing what one can do with the use of hand signals and large menu boards. Food is good. A plate of olives is provided as we wait for the meal to be prepared. Now, I am not the greatest fan of olives, but…these are very tasty. Do check out the restaurant’s website http://www.rtemariabelen.com It is in Spanish but there are photos and a creative map (Donde Estamos?) that is very helpful in orienting ones mind to where you are in the whole picture of Spain.
From the windows of the restaurant we can see white windmills along the ridge of the surrounding hills. This is what I came to the region for…Don Quixote’s windmills. We choose to leave the highway and travel to Alcazar de San Juan for a close up look. There are many communities one could visit to see the windmills so this was a personal choice after doing some research.
The community is quite large…modern conveniences on the outskirts, narrow one way streets in the downtown area. We follow our eyes and head towards the hills south of town where we believe the windmills to be. There they are! Up a steep narrow gravel road and here we are right next to the windmills.
Here, near Alcazar de San Juan, there is a parking area for tourists and one of the windmills is a museum. The view from up here is sweeping. I can see why many villages in Europe were built on hill tops like this one. The security of having advance warning of approaching danger would more than compensate for the steep climb to get up here.
As the wind increases (and rain clouds appear and thunder is heard in the distance) one gets first hand knowledge as to why windmills were/are placed on these high ridges. To the car before we are blown away!
Don Quixote and his windmills were the reason we choose to travel through this area of Spain so it is only fitting that throughout the region there are several statues of Don Quixote and his sidekick Sancho. These metal sculptures are just along the A4 highway.
One other statue stood out for us…not only in La Mancha, but throughout most of Spain.
These huge black bulls pop up from time to time as one is driving in Spain. We thought they were representing the bull fights of Spain. However, we later learned that these silhouettes were originally put up by the Osborne Sherry company to advertise their products. When Spain passed a law banning such billboard advertising, the bulls were going to be removed. However there was such an outcry from the public that they were left in place…minus the advertising. Hence, The Osborne Bulls.
Some guide books will tell you that there is nothing to see through this area of Spain. I beg to disagree.
Read Cervantes book (or see a live production of Man of La Mancha) and you will be compelled to visit this region.
So… to visit more of Spain…click here
and to travel the world…click here
Happy travels!